Tatebayashi ~ Mar.2025 ~

Tatebayashi was founded in the early 12th century as Sanuki Manor by the descendants of Fujiwara Hidesato (the Sanuki clan), but during the Muromachi period, the Akai clan became the lord and the prototype of the current Tatebayashi Castle was built. During the Sengoku period, it was located in an area of fierce fighting between the Uesugi and Hojo clans, but after Hideyoshi's conquest of Odawara, Ieyasu entered the Kanto region and Sakakibara Yasumasa, one of the four great generals of the Tokugawa clan, entered the castle, and the castle and town were developed.

The castle's boundaries jut out into the castle swamp, and it is thought that at the time it appeared to be floating on the water. It is a low-lying marshland sandwiched between the Watarase River and the Tone River, and the surrounding area is dotted with marshes formed by the rivers eroding the low plateau of the Kanto Loam Formation. The two rivers join about 20km downstream, and at the peak of the Jomon transgression (about 6,000 years ago), the coastline came close to the area.

The grave of Sakakibara Yasumasa is located at Zendo-ji Temple on the eastern edge of Shironuma. Among the four great Tokugawa generals, the Ii and Sakai families entered the Meiji Restoration as feudal lords of the Hikone and Shonai domains, respectively, but the Honda and Sakakibara families were repeatedly transferred from one domain to another. The Sakakibara family moved from Tatebayashi to Shirakawa, Himeji, Murakami, Himeji, and Takada. The final transfer was made as a result of punitive personnel changes in which Shogun Yoshimune was angry when Sakakibara Masamine bought Takao Tayu of Yoshiwara for 1,800 ryo. However, he was laid to rest at Rinsen-ji Temple (Joetsu City), which I visited last year. 

Sakakibara Masamine, lord of the Himeji domain, and Tokugawa Muneharu, lord of the Owari domain, rebelled against the Kyoho Reforms of Shogun Yoshimune, who valued frugality. However, after moving to Takada, Masamine seems to have governed his son well as a guardian.

The Sakakibara family also developed and protected Zenchoji Temple, which was founded by the previous lord, the Akai family. It was built with the castle pond in front, so during the Edo period, the castle could be seen over the lake to the right.

Tokugawa Iemitsu had three sons who reached adulthood, from top to bottom: Ietsuna, Tsunashige, and Tsunayoshi. Ietsuna succeeded as the fourth Shogun, but had no heir, so Tsunashige and Tsunayoshi waited in the wings as candidates to become the next Shogun, as lords of the Kofu and Tatebayashi domains, respectively. After Tsunashige and Ietsuna died, Tsunayoshi became the fifth Shogun, but had been lord of the Tatebayashi domain for just under 20 years until then. The water basin at Obiki Inari Shrine was donated by Tsunayoshi.

Recently, I visited the birthplace of Shozo Tanaka in Sano, where he fought a long-running legal battle against the government and Furukawa Mining over the Ashio Copper Mine Pollution Problem. At the memorial hall, we were given a detailed explanation of his life.

Shozo set up an office to petition for the suspension of mining at the Ashio Copper Mine at Unryu-ji Temple and used it as his base of operations. His gravestone and the Kyugeido Hall, dedicated to him, are located at Unryu-ji Temple.

The Meiji government built a flood control basin just before the Watarase River joins the Tone River, and forced the Yanaka villagers to leave in order to remove heavy metals and return the river to the area. A few remains of the original structure remain, and during normal times, land covered with reeds is visible, but when heavy rains fall, it is submerged as a flood control measure. Walking around the area, seeing the remains of the town hall and Raiden Shrine, and the gravestones of Enmei-in Temple, you can see the light and dark of Meiji Japan.

In Tatebayashi, there is Morinji Temple, famous for the old tale of Bunpuku Chagama tea kettle. Many raccoon dogs greet you in the temple grounds, and it is a must-see for raccoon fans. I bought one at a souvenir shop.

I wondered why it was made from Shigaraki ware, but it turns out that Shigaraki clay is suitable for making raccoons.